AHHH, the BVI's

    Mother nature was kind to us.  We completed the 480 NM trip from the Turks & Caicos to the BVI's in a little under 4 days. That was the good news. Unfortunately we had to motor the whole way, yuck!! The winds were unusually calm for 3 of the days but what wind there was , was right into us, no good for sailing.  We knew that was going to be the case but decided to go anyway. We were keen to continue our trip south and waiting for the wind to blow from any direction but the East could have had us waiting for weeks in the T&C's.

    It was an absolutely gorgeous day when we pulled out of the Marina and headed along the North coast of the T&C's, the water was so calm it had an "oily" look to it, just beautiful.  Shortly before sunset that first night we were treated to a wonderful show. Two whales were breaching just a couple hundred yards from the boat, an amazing sight. Of course by the time we had grabbed a camera the show was over.

   It was an otherwise uneventful trip. We saw very few other boats. We had a three quarter moon which was setting on my 2 to 6 am shift. I was appreciative of its light before it set each night and always glad to see the Eastern sky lighten up, staring at around 5.30am as the sun rose each morning.  During our shifts we read, listen to music, eat! and Ian has started watching movies on his computer, always keeping a good look out of course.  Otherwise during the day we are catching up on sleep and eating regular meals, or as I like to say; surviving.

  Needless to say, we were very happy to see  Land Ho on the 4th morning and to pull in to the North Sound of Virgin Gorda, a place we are very familiar with from our previous chartering days.

Zooropa( in the middle) on a mooring ball, Leverick Bay, North Sound 

      It was a quick and easy check in with customs and immigration and we were legal. After a very early bedtime that night and with the help of pharmaceuticals for a good nights sleep, we were feeling back to normal the next day.  

     We rented a car while on the Island of Virgin Gorda and enjoyed seeing the amazing sights and beaches.

Looking towards Tortola

On top of Gorda Peak

Looking down the length of Virgin Gorda 

The Baths. Hugh boulders line the beach.

   We moved the short distance over to The Bitter End Yacht Club and have been enjoying the hilly hikes and views.

Looking down on Saba Rock from Guy's Trail at The Bitter End Yacht Club

Looking back across the sound to Leverick Bay

At the Bitter End Yacht Club

   Ahhh, the BVI's. In a few days we plan to head over to Anegada, should be a good sail, and then continue on visiting other Islands ( all part of the BVI's) in this wonderful area.

My art project.

 

   My sister and I made jars like this as kids with shells we had collected at the beach. I collected most of these shells from Stocking Island, Exumas, Bahamas. I finally found some speckling paste in the T&C's to stick them on to the jar with.  It turned out well, we use it as a pen holder.

Turks and Caicos with Sammy and Dean

  The sea state was short and choppy on the way over to the T& C's ( I had to take some Gravol) but we had a good sail and arrived at the Blue Haven Marina just after breakfast. No sooner had we tied up than the Immigration Officer was on board checking us in to the country and the Customs officer was waiting up at the Marina office, so a quick and easy check in here in the T&C's.

This is the view from our "front porch"

The pool we get to lounge by each afternoon! 

Sammy is happy to be here.

 

A short dingy ride gets us to the beautiful beach of Grace Bay

Grace Bay on a windy day

Lots of good conch at Da Conch Shack

A beautiful setting for lunch 

Calm and shallow Sapodilla Bay. We had anchored here on our way north last year.

Another beach lunch, this time at Bugaloos

   Conch ( pronounced conk) shells are a dime a dozen down here, conch is always on the menu. After our lunch at Bugaloos we wondered out onto the beach where a local man was de-shelling (?) the conk and preparing it for the restaurant. Once the conk is removed from the shell- which they do by hammering off one of the horns and then inserting a sharp knife- they pound the crap out of the conch meat to tenderize it before eating. Below are pictures of the conch meat being removed from the shell. It is quite  amazing what comes out of those lovely shells!

    Looking at these pictures now, I believe the white splattered "bits" on the mans blue shirt are pieces of pounded conch. The two black and white marbled stalk like appendages are apparently the eyes.

   Our week with Sammy and Dean has come to an end. We had a lovely, fun time showing them some of the Island and beaches.  The marina is more like a resort, with it's own beach, pool and gym where Sammy tried to whip me back into shape each morning! ( Thanks Sammy).

   We are anxious to continue our trip south  and it finally looks like we can make a move in that direction. Unfortunately for us we need to go east ( and south) and east is the direction the winds blow from. For the next three or so days the winds look to be light so we will head out this afternoon even though it appears we will be motoring more than sailing.  Fingers crossed our destination is the BVI's but if we can't make it there - due to high winds from the east - then the USVI's or even Puerto Rico will do.

Hanging out at Blue Haven Marina, T&C's  

Long Island and Long Cay.

  Well, we had a "kick ass" ( Captains words) sail from Georgetown down to Long Island. We left with several other boats and left them all in our dust ( wake!) This is a new phenomenon for us this year and we put it down to having a clean, barnacle free bottom ( on Zooropa that is!) and a much improved main sail.  We were on a beautiful beam reach with around 18 to 20 knots of wind. At one point our boat speed was up to 10 knots,  yee-ha!!!

Happy Captain 

 We anchored in the large Thompson Bay, Salt Pond area. This is a popular area for cruisers. They have a radio net going each morning over the VHF radio and organized events, including a well attended drinks get together on the beach that evening. There is a very well stocked grocery store and a short walk over the Island brings you to another spectacular Eastern shore beach.

We can't get enough of these beaches

Look at those colours!

   One day we rented a car and drove South and then North on the Queens Highway, the only main road on Long Island.  There really isn't a lot to see, just scattered houses and lots of churches.

A lovely final resting spot overlooking Thompson Bay 

Farmers Market building Thompson Bay 

I'm not sure if this was Hurricane damage. You do see a lot of abandoned houses in the Bahamas.

Some damage to the roof from Hurricane Joaquin

St. Peter and St. Paul's Catholic Church, Clarence Town 

Looking down on Dean's Blue Hole. At 663 feet deep it is the world's deepest known salt water blue hole.

Dean's Blue Hole from the beach. The platform is for the free divers to descend from 

A beautiful sunset over Thompson Bay, Long Island. 

   After a week in Thompson Bay it was time to move on. We sailed north up the Western coast of Long Island with the intention of stopping at Calabash Bay on the northern tip. When we got there a large northern swell was crashing into the anchorage which would have made for a really rolly night so we decided to continue on overnight to our next destination. This time we had our asses kicked!!

  We had hoped that once around the tip of Long Island the swell would improve. It did not and with winds in the mid 20 knot range the seas were sloppy and confused, somewhat like being in a washing machine. It did not make for a fun night, particularly with the addition of several squalls thrown at us.  

   Our destination was a large anchorage off of Long Cay and unfortunately it was pretty rolly too.  We rolled there for three nights. Oh for a calm, still anchorage!  

A wonderful long beach to walk, especially at low tide. Good shelling here.

     
      We visited the settlement of Albert Town, Long Cay, which was badly hit by Hurricane Joachin. One of the local men, Trevor, took the time to show us around and introduce us to the other locals. There is very little there, no grocery stores, shops or other conveniences but the view out over the reef with the turquoise waters is a million dollar view.

The road from the dingy dock into Albert Town, Long Cay 

The view out here was spectacular. Tree damage from Hurricane Joachin

Hurricane devastation

Hurricane devastation

The settlement of Albert Town 

St. David & St. Augustine Church. Built in 1795.

   This church was in ruins but the locals were able to use  this side of the building as a place of worship before the Hurricane.

   Here in Albert Town and else where in the Bahamas the people have been warm and friendly. At no time have we felt unsafe, nor have we felt the need to lock up our dingy or belongings; the exception apparently being Nassau where crime is rampant. This unfortunately will change as we reach the Carribean.

Abrahams Bay Settlement.

   Abrahams Bay on Mayaguana is our last stop here in the Bahamas. We plan on leaving here tomorrow morning, around 2am ( hate leaving somewhere in the middle of the night) and make the short passage of approx. 60NM. to the Turk's and Caicos.

South to Georgetown, Exuma's.

     Over the last month we have continued to travel south down the Exuma chain of Islands. Here are a few pictures of the Islands and anchorages we have visited.

Looking south down Cambridge Cay with Bell Rock.

Looking over to Bell Harbour. Zooropa is in there somewhere.

Looking North, Warderick Wells

North mooring field, Warderick Wells

House and garden on Staniel Cay 

Staniel Cay 

The Blue Grocery Store, Staniel Cay 

Feeding time for the Nurse Sharks, Staniel Cay  

Reefs off the Eastern shore of Staniel Cay 

Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay 

Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay 

Excellent laundry facilities, Black Point.  

Low tide, Eastern shore of Stocking Island.

Ian enjoying the views, Stocking Island.

Low tide.

Anchorage on Western shore, Stocking Island. Zooropa is far left. Great Exuma Island in the background.

Stocking Island beach

Looking north up Stocking Island 

       As you can see from the number of pictures, we like the beach on Stocking Island!! We have been here a week now and I think we have walked it every day. This area ( Georgetown, Great Exuma ) is a really lovely place to hang out in. There are multiple, large anchorages, which is just as well since more and more boats are arriving daily. The busy little town has a well stocked grocery store, restaurants, gas station, marina, hair salons, etc, etc. There is a cruisers net on the VHF radio each morning to keep you informed of the daily events taking place. I have joined in with Yoga on the beach and and a fun water aerobic's class.  We have met up again with fellow Antares owners Greg and Sheila ( True North) and also Randy and Ellen ( Heaven) whom we last saw in Eleuthera.


    This is our last stop on The Exuma's. Tomorrow we will leave here and head south-east to Long Island, a pleasant day sail we hope!