Our first season comes to an end.

   
  We departed Stuart, Florida on June 19th and had an uneventful two night sail up to Charleston. Just as in Florida it was extremely hot here, unseasonably so we were told. We did go down to the waterfront and had a slow walk around but the heat got the better of me so it was back to the air conditioned boat for the rest of the afternoon ( we were plugged in at a marina again).

A pleasant way to see the beautiful old homes of Charleston

We had come to Charleston mainly to have our UK main sail looked at, it is to be swapped out with a new one when we pass thru again this Fall.  With this now accomplished we prepared to get " on the road again" and were off the dock bright and early, 5.30am!, the next morning for the next leg of the journey.  There was good wind behind us and also the Gulf stream current helping push us North. For interest/entertainment we heard frequent calls over the VHF radio from US Navy Warships warning boaters of live fire practice and advising that we keep 10NM from any Warship. Will do!!  Later in the day we passed relatively close ( probably within 5NM) to these two Navy vessels which didn't seem to bother them as we were not hailed and asked to change our course.

   It was a very dark night passage that night, clouds covered any stars and the moon. There was lightening all around for a good part of the night too, fortunately not directly over us. When out on the ocean on a sail boat with a tall pointy stick ( the mast), lightening is about the last thing any sailor wants to see!  Anyway, we made it through ok and I was happy to realize that we had completed our last overnight passage for the season. The weather was not looking at all good for an outside run around Cape Hatteras and so we had decided to complete our trip north by going up the ICW which would involve day trips only.

 Our port of call for the next few nights was the lovely little town of Beaufort, North Carolina.

Beaufort waterfront

Zooropa at the dock in Beaufort

Walking on Town Marsh Island, across from Beaufort

   We spent six days motoring up the ICW from Beaufort, NC to Portsmouth, VA. We travelled up rivers and canals, across sounds and thru a lock.

Leaving Beaufort  

Scenery along the way  

 This was the view from our overnight anchorage south of Elizabeth City on the Pasquotank River. Built during WW11, this Naval Blimp Airdock housed blimps that were used to patrol the coastline in search of German U-boats.  The facility is now used by a private manufacturer of blimps and airships. It is HUGE!!

"Down on the Bayou"

 
 There are two routes between Albemarle Sound and the Chesapeake Bay, we decided to take the route along the Dismal Swamp Canal. The 22 mile canal was hand dug by slave labour in the early 1790's. The canal became part of the ICW in 1929 and is now maintained by the U.S Army Corp of Engineers.

We spent the night tied up to the Welcome centre dock. Free WiFi!!

The Dismal Swamp Canal

 This is one of two locks we traversed. We were the only boat in both locks, everything went very smoothly.  

 Shortly after passing thru the last lock on the canal there was an obvious change in scenery!  Welcome to Portsmouth, VA.

  A full day of motoring from Portsmouth brought us to Deltaville, the end of the road for us this season.  Since arriving in Florida we have been prepping the boat in anticipation of leaving her on the hard for several months. All clothing/towels/bedding was washed and stored in large ziploc bags. All cupboards and draws in the galley were wiped clean. All food was removed from cupboards and storage areas. The fridge and freezer were emptied and cleaned. Both heads were completely scrubbed down. All wood work was dusted and polished. The list goes on and on and these were only my inside jobs. Ian had an equally long list of outside work.  It has been a lot of work, HOT work once she was hauled out and we no longer had the luxury of air conditioning. Hopefully we did a good job and we won't come back to any nasty surprises.

   And so our first year of cruising has come to an end. We lived on the boat for close to eleven months and travelled roughly 6,000 NM in that time. The countries we visited on the way include Argentina, Brasil, Tobago, Grenada, Grenadine Islands( Union Is.,Mayreau, Tobago Cays, Mustique, Bequia), St.Lucia, Martinique, Les Saintes, Antigua, Barbuda, St.Barths, St.Martin, Anguilla, Culebra, Turks and Caicos, Bahamas ( Mayaguana, Plana Cay, Acklins, Exumas, Nassau, Berry Is.), USA.    There are still A LOT of places that we haven't seen, enough to keep us going for many years yet.

Currencies used during our travels

  We are home now and it has been wonderful reconnecting with family and friends. I am enjoying all the space in our condo, having unlimited running water, taking long showers, not HAVING to check the weather every day, shopping at large well stocked grocery stores, sleeping on a non moving platform, not having to get up for night shifts!! We have a beautiful, comfortable boat but life on board is a little like glorified camping, it feels good to be having this break. Still,  we are both very eager to return to Zooropa and continue the adventure.  

Florida bound

    After seeing Ryan and Danielle off we were now in "get to Florida" mode. We had plans to get some boat work done while in Florida and, since it was now mid May, we were feeling a tad time pressured. We are new at this and have no idea how long it will take us to get up to the Cheasapeake Bay where we plan to store the boat for the summer months.
  Sooo, with all this in mind, we looked at the charts and decided the best route for us was; Nassau to the Berry Islands, day hops up the Berry's to Great Harbour Cay and then an overnighter from there, across the Gulf stream, to Florida.

A calm day flying the asymmetric spinnaker 

   So,  we spent five days in the Berry Islands  basically having a nice leisurely sail in the morning and then dropping anchor off a deserted beach in the afternoon with a pleasant beach walk and refreshing swim to end the day. Not too bad!!

  The anchor was up by noon on May 26th and we were off on our way to Florida. This was exciting for us, I mean, I know we're not American but it felt like we were finally going home with the boat. Well, at least to the correct continent!
     Why aren't the winds always blowing at the perfect speed and direction?? It seems to me that they're often not quite strong enough ( careful what I wish for !) and we end up with the engines on. So, in an effort to keep to our timed schedule ( for arrival purposes) we motorsailed out of the Bahamas towards the Gulf stream and Florida. It was a pleasant, well lit night with lots of cargo ships around to hold our attention. I had to get Ian up during my shift as we were sandwiched between two large ships, front and back and I was feeling rather uncomfortable with their proximity too us, they come at you fast out here.
   Our boat speed picked up by at least 3 knots as we entered the Gulf stream. This is a fast flowing Atlantic ocean current, originating at the tip of Florida and continuing Northwards up the U.S east coast. No safe, or smart, boater would take on the Gulf stream when the wind was blowing against the current, the resulting waves can apparently be horrendous.  Happily for us we had the wind behind us and were able to enjoy the ride before being "spat out" of the stream just south of our intended arrival location, the Fort Pierce Inlet.
   After five pleasant days at the Fort Pierce City Marina we were off to experience the ICW ( Intracoastal Waterway) on our way to Stuart, Florida where we were scheduled to have some boat maintenance done.  The short section of the ICW that we travelled that day was very scenic, although the person at the helm certainly needs to be giving it their full attention, no reading at the helm seat now! Pucker factor was high as we approached our first fixed bridge! These bridges are 65 feet high and our mast height is 61 feet, plus a short antennae. We obviously made it underneath ok but boy, when you are on the boat and looking up at the bridge and your mast, it looks like there's no way you will fit under.

Here we go.

Best just to close your eyes and cross your fingers.

    After a week at Sunset Bay Marina, Stuart, ( thank goodness for air conditioning and long cool showers) we felt like taking a break and so rented a car and drove up to St Augustine.  We enjoyed walking around the old city for a couple of days and the king sized bed was nice at the hotel, but it felt good to get back "home" to Zooropa. We look forward to visiting again this fall by boat on our way down the ICW.

Feeling patriotic!

Ian at the candy store

Shops in St.Augustine

St.Augustine waterfront

    Unbelievably we have now spent two weeks in Stuart, the days just seem to fly by. At times it seems like one step forward two-steps back ( the canvas repair was incorrectly done, the Furuno chart plotter is now iffy, the up 'til now functioning water maker is no longer functional !) whats that saying, " if it ain't broke don't fix it"?!!

  Well, I was just about to say that we were leaving tomorrow but have now been informed that will not be the case. Both the Furuno and water maker guy's will be back. Oh well, such is the boating life. At least we are hooked up to shore power here and have the air conditioning on, because it is bloody HOT outside, no other word for it.  Hopefully these issues will all get resolved and we will be on our way soon. Our next port of call is Charleston. We will be going outside ( not up the ICW) with the Gulf stream helping to push us north. It should be a two and a half day sail and we are both looking forward to getting out on the ocean again, it's been a while.

Pretty sunset at the marina

Black Point, Exumas to Nassau with Ryan and Danielle.

   

 We love it when the kid's come for a visit and so with much excitement we headed back south to Black Point to pick up Ryan and Danielle.

 

   It was a quick half hour flight for them down from Nassau, they arrived right on time. We immediately whisked them right back to the boat and up anchored for the quick trip back to Staniel Cay where we wanted to take them snorkelling at the Thunderball grotto. Fortunately the timing was perfect for us and it was low tide.

   Next up, just around the corner from Staniel Cay, was a visit to Big Major's Spot where, yes indeed, pigs do swim!

Apparently , many years ago, local people left some pigs on the Island and they have since multiplied in number. It is hilarious to watch as a dingy approaches the beach. The pigs, who have been resting in the shade on the beach, come swimming out with mouths open wide. I have to say, those are big pigs, and I found them a bit intimidating at first until another cruiser told me to hold the food bag high, apparently they cannot jump.  Good to know.

 Here's Ryan enjoying feeding the pigs.  Then it was back to the boat and a quick change and then dingy in to Staniel Cay Yacht Club  for lunch. It was lunch time too for these Nurse Sharks, being fed off the dock at the Yacht Club. They are shy and placid, you could if desired, walk among them.

 After lunch we set sail heading North. We spent the night at Compass Cay, where we experienced crazy currents which had the boat turning end to end all night.

 
An early morning exit from Compass Cay on a high tide and we were on our way to Warderick Wells, which is part of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.

 What a beautiful and special spot. Crystal clear sparkling water and deserted white sand beaches.The Park provides mooring balls here, you can also anchor in designated area's. During the peak cruising season you call ahead one day and get your name on a waiting list for a mooring ball but the peak season is over now so we had our pick of balls at Emerald Rock.

There are well marked walking trails on  Warderick wells Cay with views to both sides of the Island.

Looking at the North Mooring field and beyond.

  One of the trails leads to Boo Boo Hill where visiting cruisers are encouraged to leave a namesake ( on wood only please) of their boat.  Thanks go to Danielle for crafting our Zooropa sign.

 The kids went off with the dingy and the  Go Pro and came back with lots of great shots.













  As the tide goes out beaches appear near the moored boats.

   Ryan having a close encounter with a Nurse Shark off the back of our boat.

 We reluctantly left Warderick Wells to continue North. After a fabulous beam reach sail here we are having lunch at Highborne Cay. This is another privately owned Island but cruisers are welcome to dine at the Marina restaurant and permitted to walk the lovely local beaches.
 

   The next day was grey and rainy and we had a bumpy motor-sail up to Nassau. Here's Zooropa tied up in the Atlantis Resort Marina.

  Ian and I enjoyed walking around the huge resort. They have done a really good job here with excellent aquariums.

 The kids enjoyed the use of the pools and water slides.

  With my two favourite men!

Sadly and all too quickly Ryan and Danielle's week came to an end. We saw them off and the following day headed out for our next stop, the Berry Islands.

Thunderball Grotto, Staniel Cay

  Thunderball Grotto became famous after appearing in the James Bond movie, Thunderball. It is located at Staniel Cay, Exumas and while there we, obviously, went and took a look. The best time to snorkel there is at slack water, low tide. During other times there is a very strong current around the rock where the grotto is located and at high tide, in order to get into the grotto, you would have to dive down under rock,swim along and hope that you came up in the grotto before you ran out of air!!
Here are some pictures that we took of the grotto, underwater fish and coral. The colours are spectacular .  I know, it's a tough life but someone has to live it.

Ian gives the "thumbs up" after a good morning of snorkelling.